Recipe

opera cake

Welcome to the cake that has terrified me the most. You see, I have two favorite cakes. The first is my Strawberry Summer Stack Cake, the layered strawberry, cream, and butter cake version of the Strawberry Summer Cake in Smitten Kitchen Keepers. The second is the Opera Cake (Gâteau Opéra), a stacked and striped dessert with thin almond cake layers soaked in espresso syrup, chocolate ganache, and a rich espresso buttercream. The difference between the first cake and the second is that the second recipe was never going to happen.


In the nearly two decades of Smitten Kitchen’s existence, I’ve again and again begun researching what a homemade opera cake would entail and every time, slammed the proverbial book shut because it was just too much. A joconde! French buttercream! Soaking syrup! Chocolate layer! Many separated eggs! And what about all of that espresso? There are children present! And elderly people (me) who probably shouldn’t drink coffee after 4pm! If I could barely talk myself into it, how would I convince you? Maybe some things are best left to the professionals, I concluded.

And then one day, I pushed myself in the water and made myself swim. The context is that both of my kids were away at summer camp, so my distractions were at a minimum, and my mother in-law was celebrating her 70th birthday, loves all intersections of chocolate, coffee, and nutty, delicately layered cakes as much as I do, and deserved something special. If not now, when? I cobbled together the recipe components and sweated my way through it. My ulterior motive been that by the end, I’d hoped to be able to make an argument for why easier layers (perhaps just a simple butter cake?) or buttercream (surely any espresso-flavored quick frosting would work?) would work just as well here and I failed wholly at this goal. I dare you, I absolutely dare you, to try this espresso french buttercream and tell me that you’d like it to be anything else. And then I remembered: I am not here to dim the sparkle of this cake! I am here to bask in it.

Several tests later — oh, what a delicious summer it was — I couldn’t be more delighted with this cake. Here are a few nuts and bolts:

  • I’ve simplified all that I could here without, I hope, compromising any of its greatness. Wherever the simplest method had excellent results — a quick chocolate-cream ganache, a quick-whisked unheated syrup — I used it.
  • I use decaf espresso from my little machine so we can enjoy the brewed espresso flavor without (unintentionally) partying all night.
  • I’ve gotten it down to just four eggs to separate and we’ll use the whites in the cake and the yolks in the frosting — no leftovers.
  • I’ve evened out as many measurements as possible because I like tidy things like 1 cup of cream and a half-pound of chocolate.
  • The actual all-purpose flour in the cake is a mere quarter-cup, which you can easily swap with a gluten-free flour mix if needed. (You can see it here!).
  • Finally, we’re building this 13-layer stunner from two thin, quick-baking 9×13 cake layers, a pan size I bet you already have around.

The result is a small and I think quite dapper opera cake that’s absolute heaven to eat, and that I dare you to dare yourself to make.

opera cake-18
opera cake-16


Opera Cake

  • Servings: 8 to 10
  • Source: Smitten Kitchen
  • Print

Does this cake take 4 to 5 hours to make? Not necessarily. But I want you to give yourself this range of time the first time you make it, just so it doesn’t feel too rushed or stressful, unless you’re one of those weirdos that thrives on that kind of internal chaos. I prefer to make it either the day before, or at least finish it an hour or two before I want to serve it so I can chill the cake, which allows the sides to firm up and makes it easier to trim, revealing those clean striped edges.

Thank you to both Zoe Bakes (for the joconde) and Sprinkles Bakes (for the french buttercream) for their spins on opera cakes, which helped me work out some of the kinks here.

    Cake
  • 4 large egg whites (save the yolks)
  • 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
  • 1 1/2 tablespoons (20 grams) plus 3/4 cup (150 grams) granulated sugar
  • 4 large eggs
  • 1/4 cup (35 grams) all-purpose flour
  • 1 1/3 cups (160 grams) almond flour
  • Buttercream
  • 1/2 cup (120 ml) water
  • 3/4 cup (150 grams) granulated sugar
  • 4 large egg yolks (I told you to save the yolks!)
  • 2 tablespoons (30 ml) espresso, cooled
  • 1 cup (8 ounces or 225 grams) unsalted butter, cut into cubes and softened
  • Two pinches of salt
  • Chocolate
  • 8 ounces (225 grams or 1 1/3 cups chocolate chips) semisweet or bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped
  • 1 cup (235 ml) heavy or whipping cream
  • Syrup
  • 10 tablespoons (150 ml) hot espresso
  • 1/2 cup (100 grams) granulated sugar
  • 3 tablespoons (45 ml) brandy or cognac

Make the cake: Heat your oven to 350°F (175°C). Line the bottom of two 9×13-inch pans with parchment paper and coat the parchment paper (yes, this extra buffer helps a lot) and the exposed sides of the pan with nonstick spray.

In a mixer bowl fitted with a whisk attachment, whip the 4 egg whites on medium speed until they’re halfway thickened — they should look white, foamy, and show some streaks as the whisk moves through them in the bowl. Running the mixer the whole time, sprinkle in salt, then 1 1/2 tablespoons (20 grams) of the sugar. Increase the speed and beat the egg whites until glossy, stiff peaks form, about 2 minutes more. Scoop the whipped egg whites into a second bowl for now, and return the empty mixing bowl to the electric mixer. [No need to wash the bowl or whisk here.]

Add 4 whole eggs and remaining 3/4 cup (150 grams) sugar to the empty bowl and whip together on high speed until light in color and texture and and thickened ripples form in the batter as the whisk moves through the bowl, about 8 to 10 minutes. If you’re unsure, it doesn’t hurt to beat the mixture a minute longer. Remove the bowl from the mixer and fold in the flour with a flexible spatula, followed by the almond flour, half at a time. Finally, fold in the whipped egg whites, being careful not to deflate the batter.

Divide the batter between the two prepared pans and spread evenly with an offset spatula. Bake the cakes until they’re set, about 9 to 13 minutes. Transfer cakes to cooling racks and let them cool completely in the pan. However, I like to run a thin knife carefully around the cake’s sides before it cools as it has a tendency to stick, even when greased well.

Make the buttercream: In a medium saucepan, combine 1/2 cup water and 3/4 cup sugar, then turn heat to high and boil, cooking (without stirring) until mixture reaches 238°F (114°C) (aka the soft ball candy stage) and remove from the heat.

In a mixer bowl fitted with a whisk attachment, beat egg yolks for 2 minutes on a medium-high speed to loosen them. With the mixer running, add the hot sugar syrup to the yolks in a slow, thin stream (if you can, aim for the middle as the sugar syrup that lands on the sides of the bowl just hardens there), beating until combined. Add the espresso and beat until combined. Let the mixture cool to close to room temperature. You can hurry this along, as I like to, by placing some ice packs around the mixing bowl and running the machine on low (so it cools evenly and not just at the edges).

Once cool, with the mixer running, add pieces of softened butter, one at a time. The mixture may begin to look curdled – this is normal, it will be fine. When all of the butter has been added, add the salt and beat on high speed until the mixture comes together in a thick, creamy, silky buttercream that will put all other frostings to shame.

Congratulations, you just finished the two peskiest elements of the cake! The next two parts are a cinch.

Make the chocolate layer: Place chopped chocolate in a medium bowl. Bring cream to simmer. Pour cream over, wait one minute, then whisk until chocolate has melted. You can cool and thicken this quickly by setting this bowl over a larger bowl partially filled with ice water and whisking until the chocolate mixture is almost thick enough to spread. Remove the bowl from the bowl of ice water. You can stop a little short of fully thickened because it will continue to firm up as it rests.

Make the syrup: Combine sugar and hot espresso, stirring until sugar is dissolved. Add brandy and set aside.

Assemble the cake: Run a knife (again) around the cooled cakes to make sure they’re not stuck and use the parchment underneath to sort of yank the first cake, parchment and all, onto a cutting board. Use a ruler (you will thank you later because evenly cut layers need less trimming) to evenly divide the cake layer into thirds, cutting through the parchment and all. Repeat with the second cake layer, creating 6 9-inch by (approximately) 4 1/3-inch rectangles of cake.

Pick up the first cake layer and flip it briefly over onto the cutting board to peel the parchment carefully off the back. Place the first cake layer on your serving plate. Don’t worry, the cake is sticky but bendy; it shouldn’t break but even if it did, nobody would be the wiser once you patched it back together on the plate.

Brush generously with 1/6 of the soaking syrup, just eyeballing the amount. Spread with 1/4 of the chocolate mixture. Place the second cake layer with the parchment peeled off as before on the chocolate layer. Brush generously with another 1/6 of the soaking syrup. Spread with 1/3 of the buttercream mixture. You’ve just completed the first third of the total cake. You want to repeat this process two more times — with 4 more cake layers, 2/3 of the remaining chocolate, and all of the remaining buttercream. Transfer this to the fridge for 30 minutes or a freezer for 10, just until the buttercream on top is firm to the touch.

Once the buttercream on top is firm to the touch, spread the remaining chocolate on top. If you’d like to decorate the top, hold back 2 tablespoons of the chocolate to pipe what you wish. It is traditional to write “opera” on top. I, uh, wrote “smitten.” Happy birthday works too!

To finish the cake: Let the cake rest in the fridge for a couple hours, or overnight, so that it’s firm and easy to trim. Before you’re ready to serve it, use a sharp serrated knife to trim the edges of the cake so that nice, clean stripes are visible. Serve right away; you’ve waited long enough!

Do ahead: The cake keeps in the fridge for 5 days, although it would be unprecedented in my apartment. I suspect it would also freeze nicely, once firm enough to wrap tightly in plastic.

Additional Notes:

  • “Deb, why don’t we just flip the cakes out of the pan onto a cooling rack and then remove the parchment paper off the back of the cakes, as we would with a regular layer cake?” Because the cakes are SO sticky. I did it this way a few times and it created an extra unnecessary headache to then try to take the cake off the rack without losing half of it.
  • Don’t want to use alcohol in the soaking syrup? No worries, just use extra espresso.
  • For years, I’d order the Opera Cake from Balthazar bakery for my birthday and one thing I like that they do is they make the cake with hazelnut flour/meal instead of almonds. It really goes nicely here if you want to make the swap here.
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    65 comments on opera cake

    1. Rebecca

      As soon as I saw this I texted it to my mom to ask if she wanted it for her birthday cake and she said “yes!!” Question, I have some espresso powder (like the kind you would use for tiramisu), could that be used and if so how?

    2. Riek van den Berg

      Thank you! This is my favourite cake and my 70th birthday is coming soon. I’ve always wanted to make one and now I will! I can hardly wait!

    3. PattyK

      Holy Cow! My favorite flavor combination. I have one cake pan but two quarter sheet pans. Would the sheet pans work or are they too shallow?
      Thanks so much.
      PattyK

      1. deb

        A quarter sheet pan is the correct size — 9×13-inch. It’s not too shallow.

        [I’m actually using shallow pans too, these. I first bought them after seeing them on the Great British Bakeoff in 2017 but I really like how squared off they are for thin layer cakes, so there’s less trimming.]

            1. k. walker
                1. Karen

                  I was wondering if the ridges on the pan negatively affect any of your baking? Any diff out using the spatula to lift off the baked goods? Thx.

                  1. Mike

                    I used these exact USA pans to make this last night and it worked perfectly. I still lined the bottom with parchment paper and sprayed the pan and the paper, as Deb recommended, and had no trouble getting the cake out in one piece.

                    I’ve never had the ridges be an issue. I don’t find that they add any particular benefit, but they aren’t a hindrance.

    4. Karen

      Really like this rectangular stacking cake idea for family gatherings. How would you convert your tiramisu cake recipe to this? Thanks.

    5. Marcia S

      This looks incredible. Since we aren’t coffee people, I’m guessing some good quality double strength instant decaf (Starbucks via is what I use in chocolate cake) would work here if we don’t have an espresso maker?

    6. JP

      What a very beautiful cake. Thanks for all the trouble getting the recipe out! I probably shouldn’t ask with coffee being the major flavor, but is there any way to go about this without using coffee of any sort?

      1. deb

        I think I wouldn’t skip it here as the primary flavor of the cake is coffee, followed by chocolate and then an almond cake in a distant third place. Without the coffee, it’s a chocolate cake. If you want a fancy, challenging chocolate cake, you might like my Dobos Torte.

      2. g

        If you make a _praline_ buttercream rather than an _espresso_ buttercream (make praline, let it cool, blitz to powder in a food processor, make buttercream as per recipe above but without the espresso, stir in the praline) and make a not-coffee syrup then you’ll end up with something in the same sort of universe as a Marjolaine, which seems like it might be pretty good. (You might at that point choose to make an actual Marjolaine instead, which isn’t super-different in effort or difficulty from this Opera cake. But the hybrid Marjolopera is probably nice.)

    7. Curt

      “Maybe some things are best left to the professionals, I concluded.”

      Haha that’s my conclusion reading through this; congrats to all who try and good luck!

      That being said, thanks for the reminder about the Strawberry Summer Stack Cake, which I’ve not yet tried and is more my speed. My favorites from Keepers are the skillet chicken parm, the blondie chipwich, and of course the spaghetti and meatballs which I make all the time.

    8. Adrienne Wilson

      I love the way you chat with us through your commentary. It’s like being there in the kitchen with your best friend. You’re relaxed manner is reassuring. I might even actually attempt this cake after reading the very explicit instructions. Thanks Deb

    9. Tessa

      Me, a person who has not made a cake in her entire life, reading every word of this post, including the instructions, HA. Maybe someone will make it for my birthday

    10. Laura

      Deb, I admire that after 2 decades in The Game, you are still tackling huge projects with verve, remain dedicated to results, and continue to wrap it all in warmth and humor. Tip of the hat to you!

    11. Sylvia Fawcus

      Looks amazing. I have a gluten intolerance. Do you think it would turn out if I just used only almond flour instead of adding regular flour as well?

      Thanks

    12. Debby

      This is also my favorite type of cake. I would love to make it, but can you tell me if there’s another way to do the eggs in the buttercream? I don’t want to be that annoying person, but I live with someone who is immunocomprmised and I can’t get pasteurized eggs in my area.

      Also, is it possible to show what folding egg whites should look like? I feel like I never do it properly.
      Thanks.

      1. deb

        I definitely cannot confirm whether they’re safe enough for your dietary needs, but the egg yolks aren’t raw. We pour in 238°F sugar syrup which cooks the yolks while they whip. And yes, a video is coming.

      2. Bentley

        Stella Parks has a french buttercream recipe on serious eats in which she uses a double boiler to heat the eggs to 155, much like the Swiss meringue method.

    13. Mary

      I try not to have coffee or espresso after 2PM, but that won’t be a problem because I will have this cake with a cup of coffee for breakfast! Thanks, Deb!

    14. Erica

      How deep are the 9 x 13 pans? I don’t have those yet and my options are 2, 3, or 4 inch. Love your recipes, can’t wait to try this one!

    15. This is a wonderful opera, I love the way the eggs are divided into cake/buttercream and the technique descriptions!

      The opera cake in Alice Medrich’s first cookbook, Cocolat, was one of the first serious cakes I baked. Back in 1992! I found sugar syrup buttercream to be a P.I.T.A. Ever since then, I have been simplifying the process, and the process of all cakes I make, by using Rose Levy Beranbaum’s French buttercream made with honey. It is so much easier than making French buttercream with sugar syrup that I never made sugar syrup again. The honey adds only depth in a strongly flavored buttercream like coffee.

      I’m amazed people don’t talk about this more today, it’s genuinely a life saver. I made the Cocolat Opera for my 50th birthday in 2017 and used it, worked great. Here in Berlin ground hazelnut flour is available at every grocery store, so I used that instead of almond flour in the joconde.

      Rose Levy Beranbaum Neoclassic honey buttercream:

      • 6 large egg yolks ROOM TEMPERATURE (this is important)
      • 1/3 cup of honey + 1/3 cup of honey (to taste) ( I never add this, as I’m always adding other flavors)
      • 2 cups unsalted butter (softened)
      How to make it
      ________________________________________
      • Have a greased heatproof glass measure near the range.
      • In bowl, beat the yolks w/ an electric mixer until pale in color. Meanwhile, heat 1/3 cup of honey to a roiling boil; this means the entire surface is covered with large rolling bubbles. Immediately transfer the honey to the glass measuring cup to stop the cooking. It will bubble up.
      • Beat the honey into the yolks into a steady stream. Make sure you don’t allow the honey to fall on the beaters or they will spin it into the sides of the bowl. If using a stand mixer, pour a small amount of honey over the yolks w/ the mixer turned off. Immediately beat on high speed for 5 seconds. Stop the mixer and add a larger amount of honey. Beat at high speed for 5 seconds. Continue with the remaining honey. For the last addition, use a rubber scraper to remove the honey clinging to the glass measure. Keep beating until it’s completely cool.
      • Gradually beat in the butter. When it reaches the correct consistency, beat in the remaining honey. Use immediately, or place in an airtight bowl & refrigerate up to 3 days. Bring to room temperature before using & rebeat to get it to the right texture.

    16. Francine

      Just made this and while it was a project, it didn’t take 5 hours. It looks not nearly as neat as pictured, largely because my chocolate layer ran over the sides. Should the chocolate be as thick as the buttercream before spreading? Nonetheless, very excited to eat my not-so-picturesque version!

    17. Alicia

      I only have one 9 X 13 pan. If I baked the cake in two batches, do you think the second cake would suffer due to the time the remaining batter would be sitting during the first baking and cooling period?

    18. Megan

      Deb, I want you to know how much you inspire me personally. Years ago I’d see recipes on this very site and say “Maybe some things are best left to the professionals.” Over the years you’ve taught me how to make a stellar galette (which I make almost weekly), cakes that blow the lids off any box mix (including vegan cakes), and most importantly that I can give any recipe a shot. Just last month I made croissants from scratch, something I thought only professionals could make, and they were amazing. Thanks for constantly showing us that there aren’t any limits for home cooks/bakers besides the ones they set for themselves!

    19. Susan

      The closest I’ve come to this layered beauty is your 7 Layer Bars. I bought 3 of those low sided 9×13 pans for that. I love those cookies but it is a challenge every Christmas. Now I don’t have a working oven so I’m saved!

    20. Julie

      I made this over the weekend to help entertain us while my in-laws were visiting. It worked out really well, though it reminded us of tiramisu, and at the end of the day, I like tiramisu better. So not sure I’m ever going to make it again. But it was fun!

    21. D. A.

      I love that a Deb recipe will always, in the gentlest way possible, say, “You might be tempted to skip this thing or do it some other way, but trust me, if I’m telling you to do something, it’s because I’ve thought about what your lazy, short-cutting impulses would prompt you to consider doing instead, and I’ve either already put it into the recipe or told you why it won’t work.”

    22. Cait Lovelace

      Just threw this beast in the fridge after really struggling to assemble 😂 that was WAY harder than I expected. That said, all of the components taste delicious so even if it slides apart in the fridge it will still be great. This might be a once in a lifetime bake for me

    23. Rebecca

      Returning to comment that I did make this for my mom’s birthday and here are my notes!

      – With the cake batter, the instructions say to beat “until thickened ripples form in the batter as the whisk moves through the bowl” – I felt like that happened within the first couple minutes and then I was second guessing myself trying to figure out whether the ripples should be like, thicker? If I should still beat it longer or not?

      – It was tricky to know when the cakes were done in the oven – they seemed set but I couldn’t tell if they should get a little more color or not. In the end, the one that I let get a little more golden came off the parchment more easily, and the one that was more white lost more cake content to the parchment. So maybe I should have let it get more color?

      – I did swap gluten-free flour for the all-purpose and it seemed just fine.

      – I used DeLallo instant espresso powder to make the espresso – reconstituted according to their instructions, following Deb’s advice, and that worked fine. The powder is caffeinated, unfortunately, for anyone searching for a decaf option! (I had it sitting in the pantry so wanted to use it if I could.)

      – The soaking syrup seemed like a LOT. After I tried to use up 1/6th on the first layer, I got concerned the cake would get really mushy. I used less for the other layers. I think that was the right call because the bottom layer did indeed get mushy – not a huge deal but I don’t think it would have been as good if all the layers were like that. Maybe that’s actually how it’s supposed to be and I should have used all the soaking syrup? Not sure!

      – I found advice elsewhere to heat up the knife in hot water before slicing, so I did before trimming the sides and it did slice very cleanly. (But we didn’t do that when slicing it for eating and it was OK too, so not sure how vital it is.)

      It came out looking pretty good and tasted really good! Got positive reviews from everyone. My aunt said “it tastes like what tiramisu is trying to be”. It also looked impressive which is always fun as the baker ;-)

      I would make it again if my mom requested it again – I liked it but coffee isn’t high on my flavor list, nothing against the cake though! (Maybe I’ll try the Dobos torte sometime.) Excited to hear there will be a video soon as I really wished I had one for reference, but thank you Deb for making this seem doable and giving me a fun project to work on this weekend!

    24. Karen

      Oh my! Opera Cake!! <3 the most delicious cake ive ever tasted.. the one i want for celebrating anything!! (Wegmans in Woodbridge NJ used to sell it.. but not for many years now.) I wonder if i will ever have the courage to try this recipe… but now youve provided the possibility. I love your recipes and the way you introduce them to us. thankyou!!

    25. Elizabeth

      Deb: it looks like this cake is 1/4 cup (35 grams) away from being Pesach-dich — so close! Would the recipe work if you swap out the flour with more nut flour? Thanks.

    26. Leah

      Made this for a friends bday, and it was a PROJECT but learned a lot. Some notes I think will help others attempting:

      Cake:
      -Mine, like another commenter, needed the whole 13 min and maybe could have gotten a bit longer to not have left so much behind when I pulled it back. It needs to give a bit of “spring” rather than just “set” to be done imo!
      -I have a feeling the slight differences in egg size (even if you use large) matters a lot here, because the cake is so dependent on egg for structure and liquid content. Mine were a bit big— hence maybe needed longer to bake.
      -I let the eggs beat for a while (recommended 8-10 min) with the sugar until I got pretty thick ribbons. I personally found it needed at least 6 minutes to get to a thickened stage.

      Frosting:
      -I let the egg yolks really jive a bit with the mixer (3-5 min) to get fully loosened before adding the hot sugar syrup.
      -when adding the syrup: I BEG that you turn the mixer down to low and really follow Deb’s rec of adding it to the middle of the bowl. Maybe it’s cold in my kitchen, but the first time I was not careful enough/ my mixture was on medium speed and nearly every bit of the syrup hit the whisk and flew to the sides of the bowl, crystallizing. I also found that adding a bit to the middle, mixing on medium once the hot syrup settled to the middle, then going back to low and repeating the process was better. But would love tips on if anyone found an easier way!!!
      -mine curdled like something horrendous the entire time I added the butter. But I put trust in Deb and lo and behold once I started whipping on high speed everything got creamy and thick, so just send a prayer up and keep going
      -I still found the buttercream a bit thick/butter heavy for my tastes. Comparing to other French buttercream recipes some use a higher proportion of eggs/syrup to butter, so I might do an extra yolk next time even if that uses uneven amounts of eggs

      Ganache:
      -let it actually set for 30 minutes in the fridge. Don’t be like me and try to assemble it when it’s room temp, it’s messy as anything

      Syrup:
      -I too had way too much for the amount of cake. I only did one go-over with the syrup and probably had half remaining. But that’s probably because…

      Assembly:
      -because my cakes were not perfectly even going into the oven, I had to trim a lot when stacking. This led to a much smaller cake, maybe loosing 1-2 inches on each side. Next time I might just 1.5 the cake recipe because it’s easier to trim a lot, and then I can make an even bigger one!
      -make sure you let it set before adding the ganache!!! The top looks really pretty if you do:)

      Overall a great starting point and looking forward to perfecting my technique- maybe in like another 6 months tho when I tackle this again

      1. Rebecca Costello

        Oh yes, 100% to letting everything set and cool well before assembling! Fortunately my kids and other plans kept interrupting me so this was not a problem for me, but I would otherwise have probably gotten impatient. Another good reason to make it the day before!

    27. Nancy R Sellers

      Please find a way to include the picture when you print a recipe. I don’t usually care that much but this cake definitely needs the picture with it! Thanks. Love your postings!

    28. Nancy

      Is this doable without a mixer? I’m not scared of a bit of arm work but I’m worried there’s something I’ll be missing if I’m doing it by hand

    29. Mike

      I have never made a layer cake from scratch in my life and for some reason I decided this beast would be my first.

      I took me almost the full 5 hours and I think I used every single bowl and utensil in my kitchen, but it went great! It involves so many different elements that I feel like it was good training for this timid baker.

      As a bonus, I got to eat all the trimmings when I squared off the cake this morning. So even though I won’t be serving it until this afternoon, I can confirm it tastes incredible.

      Thanks for the nudge!